Lines Off

As of 0630 Costa Rican time on October 7, Iron Lady tossed her lines bound for the Galapagos some 720 nautical miles from Marina Papagayo. Even as of last night, there were some doubts about our departure but that is getting ahead of myself.

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Our original intended departure was on October 5 but a nasty low pressure system to our north was pumping out 3 solid days of rain and 50 knot winds offshore. The two weather models we watch (GFS and European Model) varied significantly about when the system would move on and there really wasn’t any clarity until late Friday. The weather complicated and already complicated situation as we have guests arriving to meet us in San Cristobal on the 10th. Added to that are the complexities of the regulations regarding our entry into the Galapagos.

We were required to have the bottom of the boat throughly cleaned and certified to be free of marine growth as one condition of our entry into the Galapagos (and they do dive the boat to be sure we are in compliance). Due to the high fouling environment in Marina Papagayo, we had to complete this a few days before our departure and get the certification by the surveyor who had to come up from San Jose 4 hours away. There was some question about whether he could actually get to us on Saturday as many roads had been washed out by the torrential rains over the preceding three days. His arrival was further complicated by mass protests that are going on in Costa Rica and protesters have been closing the roads for long periods of time on a random basis.

There was also a requirement for us to get the boat fumigated using a special thermal nebulization process that had to be done within 48 hours of our departure. Prior to that process, we had to tear the boat apart and bag all the being and food items to prevent contamination, after which, it took the better part of a day to put the boat back together and clean all the surfaces.

Finally, we had to arrange our exit Zarpe with the Port Captain and Immigration and they do not work on Sunday. Once cleared out, we were required to depart within 24 hours.

Putting all this together, we arranged to have the bottom cleaned Thursday, the fumigation early Friday followed by putting the boat back together and cleaning Friday afternoon and Saturday, the bottom inspection Saturday, outbound clearance on Saturday along with one last trip to the market for perishables and returning the rental car at the airport (fortunately there were no protests). It was a bit of a gamble as we still did not have a clear picture of what the weather would be on Sunday.

Then there was also the preparation of a 15 page plan that we are required to have for garbage control, oil spills and emergencies that has to be presented on our arrival. Added to all the above was prep of the boat – an oil and filter change on the engines, change out all the zincs, change the fuel filters, and tear down all the raw water plumbing to clean out marine growth (including puffer fish that like to swim in the thru hulls and get stuck which shuts down our air conditioning among other things).

With all the above, Thursday and Friday nights were sleepless affairs for me as there were just so many ways all of this could have gone pear shaped.

Saturday arrived and our agent arrived with all the clearance paper work and the bottom inspector got to us around noon time. The final round of shopping was completed and the rental car was returned to the airport. The boat was put back together and by 3 PM all the pieces had amazingly fallen into place – NOT.

We sent off the the certifications for the bottom cleaning and fumigation to our agent in the Galapagos and were promptly informed that our Fumigation Certificate was invalid and we would be subjected to an “aggressive” fumigation upon our arrival.

There we were about 14 hours away from a mandatory departure late on a Saturday trying to get the right piece of paper from the Fumigator (with our non existent Spanish). The marina manager and his staff came to the rescue, somehow got to the Fumigator and got a piece of paper that met the requirements and delivered it to us at the Marina around 8 PM.

We are now happily at sea (and hoping that all the expense and nonsense of getting into the Galapagos is worthwhile). Transit time to the Galapagos was a brief 72 hours and Neptune treated us nicely with minimal head seas and winds.

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Once off shore, we put out the big rod with a Shabby (I think we are on about the 4th or 5th generation now – you can read about the family history of Shabby and his lineage in older posts). One hour before sunset, the rod went off with a bang with the reel screaming. When I got to the rod, it was just in time to see a very large marlin crashing off in the the distance. Within a few minutes, it took out over 1200 feet of line even with the drag locked down. We fought the big guy for an hour with the intent of at least getting back most of my line and possibly Shabby but it wasn’t to be. Every time I got it close to the boat it would sound and take out more line. Finally at dusk it was getting too difficult to see the line and there was a danger it would get fouled in the props so we cut him off without ever getting to see him up close. Marlin one, Iron Lady zero.

Our route south took us past Isle de Coco (Costa Rica). Some say it was the inspiration for “Treasure Island”. Now it is a mecca for divers but no one is permitted ashore.

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On our second day out, we had another Shabby rigged and hooked up again late in the afternoon. Much smaller fish which was good but it was not to be either as it spit the hook. Fish 2, Iron Lady zero. Finally on our last afternoon at sea, we picked up a nice Mahi-Mahi.

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I final night at sea was marked by crossing the equator – second time for me and first for Deb. We cured a can of beer over the side for Neptune for granting us safe passage. We only had about 6 hours of confused seas during the trip.

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We made land fall at dawn on October 10th a few days later then planned due to our weather delayed departure from Costa Rica. With guests arriving from the US at mid day the timing worked well. With he hook down in San Cristobal, our agent Antonio of Seamasters advised that he would pick up our guests and bring out the authorities at 2 PM so we spent the rest of the morning cleaning up Iron Lady from our voyage.

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At 2 PM, our welcome committee consisting of Antonio, our guests and 10 authorities arrived to clear us in. There was a diver who inspected our bottom and the certificate for same, two immigration agents, several officers from the Armada (Ecuadorian navy), customs agent, food and agricultural inspectors, and someone assigned to inspect for bugs with a vacuum device and review our fumigation certificate. Our refer, freezers and stores were inspected for prohibited items, our waste management plan was reviewed, the bug inspector opened lockers and removed contents looking for critters, and the Armada officers inspected our engine room and safety equipment. Probably the most thorough inspection I have been thru in all the countries we have visited. Fortunately all our paperwork was in order and the inspections went well so we were cleared in.

It is interesting to note that all the cruise lines maintain boats here that do not leave. Understandable given the complexity and expense of clearing in. Cleaning the bottom and fumigating a large cruise ship would simply be prohibitive if they were not stationed here full time.

Everything here is highly regulated. We are only permitted to use our dinghy to the town dock and back – it cannot be used for any other purpose. We have been approved to visit three ports and we must clear out of each by an Armada officer and present proper paperwork to another officer at the next port. Stops in between are not permitted and we must apply for permission to move 24 hours prior to our planned departure.

As far as visiting any of the various sights and venues, it generally must be done with a regulated tour service as we are not permitted to do so in most instances on our own.

Cheers

Posted in Galapagos | 2 Comments

Dinghy Handling

One of the more potentially dangerous activities aboard is launching and retrieving the our large aluminum bottomed rigid inflatable. At 16 feet with a 70 HP Yamaha outboard, it weights in just around 1000 pounds. While the FPB 78 and FPB 64 both use the booms to launch and retrieve the dinks, each boat differs in various ways and poses its own unique issues.

As things are set up on our 78, the booms are controlled with traveler cars much like the travelers on a sailboat. Lines from he cars are lead down to a winch mounted on the mast close to the aft deck. The winches are used to crank the booms in and out. The large dinghy is actually lifted up and down by a drum winch in the starboard side wet locker.

Until now, we have been lifting the dinghy over the starboard life lines and then down on to the cradle. There have been a number of issues with this system.

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In this picture, you can see how much further up the dink was to be lifted to clear the lifelines by looking at where the dink is positioned as compared to the lifelines and stanchions at the boarding gate. (Note – the lines typically ran all the way aft from the boarding gate to the aft corner of the deck – in this pic they are removed).

The higher you lift the dink, the more problematic things get so keeping it lower makes a big difference. There have been situations where controlling the dinghy was like trying to contain an angry billy goat. The other factor that compounded things was how tight things got as the dink cleared the lifelines. The aft corner of the solar panel array over the back deck created an interference problem.

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The arch on the dinghy had to be brought right up to the corner of the array, the dink pushed outboard slightly, and then raised again to clear the lifelines. The same issue occurred on retrieval as the dink had to be lowered slightly once over the lifelines to clear the corner and then pulled further inboard so it could be lowered without hanging up on the lifeline. Clearance at this point in the process was only a few inches. Add a bit of roll and it was almost impossible to prevent the dinghy from hitting something.

Our next iteration was to remove the two stations between the boarding gate and aft corner of the boat. We had partially anticipated this by using pelican slips to connect the lifelines to the stations which simply unclip with the pull of a pin. The mid stanchion also had a fast pin which makes it simple to remove. The aft station was bolted in place but we will add a fasten to that as well.

This is how things look with the stations removed.

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The procedure with the stanchions and lines removed consists of hooking up the lifting halyard to a bridle on the dinghy.

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The dinghy is then hoisted up to deck level.

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At this level, the dink can be brought directly aboard just a bit higher then the chocks on deck.

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A line around one of the overhead supports forward and one around aft and the dinghy bow is brought aboard first.

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The stern is similarly pulled in and the dink is lowered on to the chocks.

Using this method, no one is under the dink while trying to maneuver it aboard and only a few cranks on the winch to start bringing the boom and dink inboard are required.

Once on board, the dinghy completely seals off the open side deck. There is only one small area at the bow where someone could potentially slip between the dink and the starboard boarding gate station and go overboard. We secure this are with the dinghy painter. Obviously, there is a hazard down the side and across the starboard aft deck when the dink is off the boat but it is a simple matter to insert the two stanchions and clip the lifelines in place to secure the deck.

We also have discovered that the dink can be left outboard and secured against the belting in secure anchorages when the weather is benign.

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No doubt there will be additional refinements but this is a huge improvement over how we have been doing things.

Posted in 78-3 Updates | 11 Comments

Te Kouma

As we have been delayed getting into the Viaduct Marina in Auckland, Steve has a a lot more pleasant anchorages for us to explore. We spent two nights in Te Kouma Harbor on the Coromandel Peninsula. Beautiful little spot with added benefits of great protection from yet another blow, mussel farms where we could pick up a bucket of same and the opportunity to get off the boat and do a little walking.

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The terrain is extremely steep so the best strategy was to find cow paths which traverse the hillsides switchback fashion.

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It blew for 30 knots most of the day but around 4, we decided that I should take the dink to the nearby mussel farms while Steve stayed with the boat to keep and eye on things. It was really quite rough out in the channel and I was really pleased how well our Swift Inflatable handled it all. I was able to stay on plane even into it and the boat was very dry and had a nice soft ride.

The mussels are actually grown on drop lines hanging down from long lines on the surface which are supported by buoys. You are permitted to harvest the mussels yourself within an arms length of the surface. Naturally, the ones further down on the drop lines are much bigger and nicer. I really wasn’t looking forward to hanging over the side of the dink trying to collect them by hand in 30 knots of breeze. Fortunately, a work boat had just arrived and were kind enough to give me a large bucket for dinner.

This is what we had after cleaning them up.

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Dinner was quite a feast with steamed mussels prepared in several different ways, rustic bread and roasted baby potato.

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Cheers for now.

Posted in 78-3 Updates | 2 Comments

Waiheke 2018

From Kawao, we went out to Flat Rock and had a go for some Snapper. Lots of fish but no keepers. Late morning we moved on south to Waiheke Island. In days gone by, it was kind of a hippy drop out place but now functions as a high end suburb of Auckland with the addition of high speed ferry service.

No pictures this time but you can see a prior post on Waiheke from our 2012 circumnavigation of NZ on the first Iron Lady by clicking here

Deb is ashore and hit one of the local bars to watch the end of the Super Bowl. Got a radio call that said the Eagles won – sorry Pats fans – as a Steeler fan I am no fan of the Pats.

I have also spent some time relearning MapsMarker Pro and I have updated the Chart Table tab to show where we have been recently for those who have an interest.

Cheers

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NZ 2018

Off the dock again – had enough of that. Plan was to bunker 16000 liters of fuel at the automated self serve dock next to us. The tank ran dry after 7300 liters. Oh well – the commercial guys at the wharf told us that was pretty typical. Save some of the pain as fuel fill ups are horribly expensive. 16000 liters here comes in around $14000 US. Glad we don’t have to do it often.

Finished bunkering at 1500 and the plan was to head off to the the Hens and Chicks Islands and hide out behind the Hen from southeast winds until morning when it was supposed to die out and go variable.

Plans change – we got the the Hen and there was a large northerly swell and wind waves from the south that wrapped around that made things untenable. Made the call to head further south to Kawou Island (about 3 hours) to escape things. As we headed south, the winds came up to gale strength plus higher gusts (35 to 40 knots) and Metservice changed the forecast from variables to another 30 to 45 knot blow. The low that had been impacting us was projected now to make a return trip north. We made Kawou around 2030 at dusk at dropped the hook at Two House Bay. Turned out to be the right decision as today was windy and rainy all day.

When we dropped the hook, the welcoming committee was already on hand.

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The next day, Deb and I got off the boat and went for a 2 hour walk which ended in the rain. It was still warm so great to get off the boat. A few pics of the Gray Mansion – he was governor of NZ during the British colonial times and this was his home.

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At the time, he had a managerie of animals including monkeys, African animals and a variety of others. Most were shot and killed as the monkeys were nasty and the others interfered with the natives. A few peacocks remain,

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Before we got rained out, we walked the path to the old copper refinery which has some very nice views,

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That is the remains in the background.

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There are numerous fallen down pines that folks have had some fun with – including Deb.

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Have to include a pic of IL sitting in Two House Bay.

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A full in rainy afternoon so the emphasis was on boat chores and dinner. Tonight we did a smoked Salmon in a Kiwi style smoker. It uses alcohol burners under the unit with a pan for wood chips and then the fish over that. It only takes 1/2 hour – we marinated the Salmon with salt, brown sugar and whiskey. That was served with a home made potato salad and veggie salad. Really good.

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Rainy night so a good sleeping night – hopefully improved weather tomorrow.

Tomorrow I will also try to update the Chartlink tab to show the area we are cruising so you can get a sense of where we are in NZ.

Cheers

Posted in 78-3 Updates | 6 Comments

Commissioning

Interesting day today. I composed this yesterday and tried to upload it and I was denied access to my blog. After four hours of working with various tech types at Hostgator (my web hosting service) and wordpress (my blog outfit with two different logins for my blog and my account with them), I finally discovered that somebody had hijacked my blog. From there it got worse as I tried to reconstruct who they were and how they had changed my user name and password. Once I got that sorted, it then became a matter of removing their privileges and restoring mine. No gory details but is was basically awful as when I went to delete them, wordpress wanted to delete my access to all my old posts as well. Lesson learned – make sure I log out as administrator ever time I log in. Anyway…………….

Our time has been a mix of being dockside at Pacific Disgraceway Marina and off enjoying some of the North Island’s sites. The emphasis, however, has been on commissioning and dealing with the inevitable issues that come with a new boat. Each time out, our list grows shorter as we spend more time away from the dock. Our runs have generally consisted of heading north to Whangamumu and Whangaroa as well as south to Great Barrier Island among other places.

The following two pictures were taken off the sometimes fearsome Cape Brett on an unusual flat calm day.

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To give a sense of scale, the hole thru the rock is large enough for Iron Lady to sail thru. Larger tourist boats do so routinely but we took a pass on even a flat calm day.

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The following three pictures were taken in Whangamumu. An interesting contrast between the dead tree and the surrounding bush.

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And Iron Lady looking back from the bow.

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Whangaroa is a beautiful harbor with very unusual rock formations.

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A pretty little stream with several large waterfalls leads off from the anchorage. Time did not permit a big explore this time but there are some nice pictures in our older post of our circumnavigation of New Zealand in the first Iron Lady.

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The new Iron Lady has several water toys – among them a 15 foot aluminum bottom inflatable with a 70 HP Yamaha and a smaller rowing dinghy patterned after the salmon fishing boats that were traditionally used in the Pacific Northwest.

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We occasionally get unwelcome visitors that we ask to move on.

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I had another shortly after moving aboard while Steve was down in Auckland. I got up one morning and found a fellow sleeping on the matrix deck on our coach – couldn’t believe it. He said he had been in the hospital and had been discharged late at night and had gotten lost. His cell was dead and he couldn’t call his mate. He did have a bandage where an IV had been inserted so his story was at least partially true. Either way, I told him to leave in no uncertain terms.

Anyway, I will close for now with a picture of our dinner aboard in Whangaroa.

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Vegetable skewers with havarti cheese, roasted corn and snapper (caught that afternoon) saviche Peruvian style with red onions marinated in lime and lemon juice and sweet potato. It tasted even better then it looks.

I will close for now with a typical NZ sunset from the land of the glowing skies as the Maori say (technically Rakiura which is Stewart Island). Anyway – please enjoy.

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Posted in 78-3 Updates | 9 Comments

Iron Lady Dockside

I arrived in New Zealand December 27th to begin the move aboard process on the new Iron Lady. Steve Parsons, our long time Captain, has been engaged by Circa Marine to do the commissioning of all the new FPBs including 78 1 Cochise and 78 2 Grey Wolf. Steve was also aboard Cochise on the transit from NZ to Panama and aboard Grey Wolf for her first cruise to New Caledonia. He also spent 3 days with us in Pittsburgh in early December which, in addition to having a good bit of fun, was a great opportunity to review all the items I had purchased for Iron Lady and sent to NZ as well as review additional items we would need to source. As such, we had a substantial leg up on getting Iron Lady ready to cruise.

Steve and I spent the first week moving aboard thousands of pounds of gear including everything from spares to tools, bedding, artwork and decorations. Car and van load after van load of stuff which Iron Lady just seemed to gobble up with her tremendous storage capacity.

Anxious to get on with things, we headed off for 3 or 4 days of cruising locally. The yard was on holiday from December 20th to January 8th so we wanted to get some more hours on the boat before their return and break as much stuff as possible so they could deal with all the inevitable infant mortality issues. First it was up the coast to Whangamumu – a beautiful little anchorage. The following day is was a run down to the Mokuhinau Islands where we tried our hand at a little snapper fishing (without success – it was pretty rough). Then on to Great Barrier. A major blow was forecast and Met Service kept upgrading the forecast to a full 60 knot blow from a passing 985 Millibar low.

It seemed like all of Auckland was anchored up in Port Fitzroy in advance of it. When you looked at the boat density and the quality of their ground tackle, it had all the makings of a night of bumper boats as one after the other dragged anchor. We stopped briefly and threw the dink in the water so I could buy some more bait at the local store – the dinghy dock was even worse with pure chaos as people tried to land. Once back to the boat, we quickly moved a few bays to the north where there was just one other sail boat, good protection and lots of swinging room. The herd mentality seems to apply to boating as well.

We broke out the rods and boated a bunch of snapper – two of which were invited to join us for dinner. After dinner, the evening forecast update had only gotten worse projecting a number of days before the low moved on and the wind dropped. True to our mission, we had begun to experience a number of new electronic issues – one of which took down both of our radars and the second of which compromised the effectiveness of our hydraulic stabilizers. After a good bit of discussion, Steve and I agreed it would be better to be at the dock then trapped at Great Barrier and possibly lose valuable time needed for Circa to work on our issues.

Around 9 PM we pulled the hook and headed for South Pacific Gateway Marina – our home for now. Those who have followed us for awhile may remember that the old Iron Lady was commissioned at NZ Ship Repair which is just up the road from Pacific Gateway. Our affectionate name for Ship Repair was Ship Despair. Pacific Gateway sounds like a bit more of a going concern but it really is just a working yard as well. They do boast a painted palm tree on their office and a few painted fish on the shoreside head but that is as close as gets to luxury digs. We finally made the dock at 0300 in flat calm conditions. We must have looked like a bunch of squirrels coming down the harbor with our noses planted against the glass watching for the channel marks in addition to using our chart plotter.

Turned out we had made the right call as the winds rapidly built the next day to 60 knots with higher gusts.

Since then we have continued the move aboard and Circa has been addressing our laundry list of issues. Deb arrived last Saturday and we are now prepared to head out and put more time on the boat. Hope to be off the dock this afternoon. Winds are up again and we have seen 25 gusting 35 but it should be dropping by tomorrow. Hopefully there will be some residual swell so we can get in some surfing – early indications are that Iron Lady will be very good at it.

People have been prodding me for some pictures as well so I did take some time and shot a few yesterday. Much more to come but for now, I will just throw some in the post and identify where they were taken.

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Several shots of the galley area. Tall cabinet is the refer, adjacent to that under counter are two large freezers,Cooktop is induction and under it is a full sized dishwasher. Aft counter area has storage, oven with micro and other small appliances.

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Salon area including the lower helm and a partial view of the L shaped settee.

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Matrix Deck overview showing seating including day bed and remote portable helm in the pedestal.

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View of the Matrix Deck helm area.

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Aft deck showing our big inflatable dink, rowing dink and BBQ area.

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Aft swim step and storage lockers.

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For the technically inclined, the Port Systems room in the lower companionway.

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What Steve Dashew calls the Executive Lounge – the lazarette that sports a double berth, wet head and complete workshop.

More next time.

Cheers

Posted in 78-3 Updates | 13 Comments

78-3 Build Update May 2017

Work is progression nicely in NZ and I thought I would share some of the latest pics from the yard. As an aside, it has been wonderful receiving frequent picture updates to monitor progress. Another technological marvel has been Skype – when questions arise based on the pics I am getting, the yard takes an iPad out to the boat along with the appropriate personnel and we do a video conference to address questions and concerns. Wonderful – and it avoids unpleasant surprises.

I’ll start at the stern which is still under construction. You can see three large lockers running across the transom. The right will be for petrol for the dinks, the center will house the diesel fire control pump and lots of other things given the size of the locker. The left will be for trash and more storage. The stairs from the aft deck to the swim step will come down to the left of centerline.

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Moving to the aft deck, the trapezoidal hatch to the left leads to the lazarette. Forward of the hatch is the built in that houses a sink and the BBQ along with lots of storage. The open area to the bottom of the locker is part on the engine room air induction system which is powered by several large variable speed fans. All engine room air intake and exhausts are protected by fire dampers as well in the event of an emergency.

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The trash compactor and 6 man offshore Solar life raft will live under the stairs to the matrix deck. The locker to the left of this area houses the refrigeration compressors and will also have serve as a day head. the locker to the right is a wet locker and also has houses the dinghy winch for the large dink.

The next shot is looking down into the lazarette thru the hatch on the back deck. Behind the ladder you can see the large stainless tool chest. To the right is a sink/vanity to serve crew when stationed aft – more on this in a bit. Since this area can also be accessed thru the engine room, the ladder folds up against the headliner so it is out of the way when no in use.

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Continuing with the lazaretto, the following is a picture of the aft end and the housings for the massive rudder posts.

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This following shows the tool chest and work bench located along the port side of the lazaretto. I will be making modifications to the sink area to make it more user friendly. Notice the little cubby added by Circa to house all those spray cans we all have aboard.

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Opposite the work bench is a double V berth and wet head for crew so they have their own escape and living space when needed.

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Turning to the engine room, most of the major components have been set.

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Visible in this shot are the 17 KW genset which can be run at either 50 or 60 Hz. Above the genset is the housing for the air induction fans and fire damper. Both exhaust risers for the 6068 JD engines are also visible.

The following shows the black and grey water tanks and in the background is the water maker.

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In this shot you can see the part of the hydraulic system, fuel filtration and manifolds and, in the background, the Webasto heater which provides heating and domestic hot water along with an engine heat exchanger and electric elements – the Webasto being the primary device unless underway and then the engine waste heat will be all that is required.

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The following is a shot of the Electrodyne air cooled rectifiers. With two double ended alternators producing upwards of 12KW, beefy air cooled rectifiers mounted separately form the alternators are required to handle the massive loads. In conjunction with the Victron inverters, all 240VAC, 120VAC, 24VDC and 12VDC loads can be comfortably handled when underway by the alternators. When at anchor, 14 high output solar panels will feed the 1600 amp hour 24 volt traction battery bank so the genset really should not be required very often.

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Lots more to show you but I will save that for next time.

Cheers

Posted in 78-3 Updates | 2 Comments