As we were leaving the village toward evening, Jack announced that they were going to throw a great feast the next day and we were invited! He asked that we bring along whatever chicken we could afford. Little did we know just how elaborate the feast and the preparations for it were going to be.
While we slept comfortably aboard Iron Lady, many of the villagers were hard at work most of the night preparing things. Several boats went out to catch fish, another went out to harvest lobster, and a third with the some of the women went out to harvest sea weed for a salad and crustaceans to make something like conch ceviche.
When we came ashore the next morning with our chicken, the village was already hard at work on the feast. Some women were cleaning the seaweed to make a salad. They told us it really wasn’t the season, but they wanted us to try it.
Other women were cleaning the crustaceans – a very laborious task. Deb decided to help out.
This was only the beginning of the process as it further had to be ground and “cooked” in lime juice and other spices.
Jack was busy cooking the lobster which would be made in to a delicious lobster salad.
The women didn’t waste event he smallest portions of meat from the lobster.
Meanwhile, the men of the village prepared the lovo – an earth oven.
A pit is dug and is lined with rocks which looked to be much like lava rock. A huge fire is built over the rocks and the fire was kept going all morning heating the rocks to tremendous temperatures. When it is time to cook, the wood is removed and the food is placed directly on the rocks and is then covered. The heat from the rocks actually cooks the food.
The other main course was still on the hoof. A 150 pound pig was destined for the lovo as well. For the sensitive among you, I won’t show the process, but it was very humane and quick.
The process of removing the hair was very interesting. Burlap was laid over the hair and boiling water was poured over the burlap. After this treatment, the hair was easily scraped off with a knife.
Virtually no part of the pig was wasted. Even the entrails and internal organs were cleaned thoroughly and boiled in lemon water to purge them. They were then cut up and made in to a VERY spicy curry. This fellow is making up the spices and those tiny, tiny peppers are so hot that they will burn your skin if you handle them.
The result was devoured by the men of the village right down to the pot. Fortunately Jack told us he never touched the stuff and advised us not to either. Fine by us.
The pig was butchered and select cuts were marinated in spices and the were woven in to palm leaves like a caccoon for cooking in the lovo.
In similar manner, the fish they had caught and the chicken we had provided were also marinated and woven in to caccoons.
Those potato like affairs under the chicken and fish are taro root – a starchy root vege that was also cooked in the lovo.
Once all the food was ready for the lovo, the wood was scraped away and a metal mesh was placed over the rocks. First in was a heaping mound of taro.
This was followed by the pig, chicken and fish braided in palm leaves.
Finally, the whole affair is covered in large leaves and palm branches followed by a tarp and sand.
Everything is left for about two hours to slowly cook in the lovo.
Meanwhile, Jack and others are preparing desert. Kasava (or tapioca) is boiled in sacks. After it is cooked, it is necessary to beat it severely to obtain the correct consistency. Not even desert comes easy out here.
The sauce for the tapioca is boiled down mixture of fresh coconut milk and brown sugar.
You have to have a real sweet tooth for this one.
Meanwhile, Deb is getting her baby fix.
With everything complete, the lovo is opened and everything is removed.
The women are busty preparing the table right down to nice china.
While it made us terribly uncomfortable, tradition here is that the honored guests eat their fill before the rest of the village has a thing.
While we are eating, however, the women are busy preparing plates for everyone else.
While we ate to the point of bursting, we were put to shame by the villagers. The shear quantities of food that they consumed was simply amazing.
After a very long and special day we headed back to the boat with little more then sleep on our minds. The village, however, was just getting cranked up and the kava bowl was being dragged out as we left.
We are going back to this very special little place in the world with 2 of our children in August and Jack has promised to throw another feast. We have some very special presents for them as well to return their kindness.
Yanutha – here we come!