As of 0630 Costa Rican time on October 7, Iron Lady tossed her lines bound for the Galapagos some 720 nautical miles from Marina Papagayo. Even as of last night, there were some doubts about our departure but that is getting ahead of myself.
Our original intended departure was on October 5 but a nasty low pressure system to our north was pumping out 3 solid days of rain and 50 knot winds offshore. The two weather models we watch (GFS and European Model) varied significantly about when the system would move on and there really wasn’t any clarity until late Friday. The weather complicated and already complicated situation as we have guests arriving to meet us in San Cristobal on the 10th. Added to that are the complexities of the regulations regarding our entry into the Galapagos.
We were required to have the bottom of the boat throughly cleaned and certified to be free of marine growth as one condition of our entry into the Galapagos (and they do dive the boat to be sure we are in compliance). Due to the high fouling environment in Marina Papagayo, we had to complete this a few days before our departure and get the certification by the surveyor who had to come up from San Jose 4 hours away. There was some question about whether he could actually get to us on Saturday as many roads had been washed out by the torrential rains over the preceding three days. His arrival was further complicated by mass protests that are going on in Costa Rica and protesters have been closing the roads for long periods of time on a random basis.
There was also a requirement for us to get the boat fumigated using a special thermal nebulization process that had to be done within 48 hours of our departure. Prior to that process, we had to tear the boat apart and bag all the being and food items to prevent contamination, after which, it took the better part of a day to put the boat back together and clean all the surfaces.
Finally, we had to arrange our exit Zarpe with the Port Captain and Immigration and they do not work on Sunday. Once cleared out, we were required to depart within 24 hours.
Putting all this together, we arranged to have the bottom cleaned Thursday, the fumigation early Friday followed by putting the boat back together and cleaning Friday afternoon and Saturday, the bottom inspection Saturday, outbound clearance on Saturday along with one last trip to the market for perishables and returning the rental car at the airport (fortunately there were no protests). It was a bit of a gamble as we still did not have a clear picture of what the weather would be on Sunday.
Then there was also the preparation of a 15 page plan that we are required to have for garbage control, oil spills and emergencies that has to be presented on our arrival. Added to all the above was prep of the boat – an oil and filter change on the engines, change out all the zincs, change the fuel filters, and tear down all the raw water plumbing to clean out marine growth (including puffer fish that like to swim in the thru hulls and get stuck which shuts down our air conditioning among other things).
With all the above, Thursday and Friday nights were sleepless affairs for me as there were just so many ways all of this could have gone pear shaped.
Saturday arrived and our agent arrived with all the clearance paper work and the bottom inspector got to us around noon time. The final round of shopping was completed and the rental car was returned to the airport. The boat was put back together and by 3 PM all the pieces had amazingly fallen into place – NOT.
We sent off the the certifications for the bottom cleaning and fumigation to our agent in the Galapagos and were promptly informed that our Fumigation Certificate was invalid and we would be subjected to an “aggressive” fumigation upon our arrival.
There we were about 14 hours away from a mandatory departure late on a Saturday trying to get the right piece of paper from the Fumigator (with our non existent Spanish). The marina manager and his staff came to the rescue, somehow got to the Fumigator and got a piece of paper that met the requirements and delivered it to us at the Marina around 8 PM.
We are now happily at sea (and hoping that all the expense and nonsense of getting into the Galapagos is worthwhile). Transit time to the Galapagos was a brief 72 hours and Neptune treated us nicely with minimal head seas and winds.
Once off shore, we put out the big rod with a Shabby (I think we are on about the 4th or 5th generation now – you can read about the family history of Shabby and his lineage in older posts). One hour before sunset, the rod went off with a bang with the reel screaming. When I got to the rod, it was just in time to see a very large marlin crashing off in the the distance. Within a few minutes, it took out over 1200 feet of line even with the drag locked down. We fought the big guy for an hour with the intent of at least getting back most of my line and possibly Shabby but it wasn’t to be. Every time I got it close to the boat it would sound and take out more line. Finally at dusk it was getting too difficult to see the line and there was a danger it would get fouled in the props so we cut him off without ever getting to see him up close. Marlin one, Iron Lady zero.
Our route south took us past Isle de Coco (Costa Rica). Some say it was the inspiration for “Treasure Island”. Now it is a mecca for divers but no one is permitted ashore.
On our second day out, we had another Shabby rigged and hooked up again late in the afternoon. Much smaller fish which was good but it was not to be either as it spit the hook. Fish 2, Iron Lady zero. Finally on our last afternoon at sea, we picked up a nice Mahi-Mahi.
I final night at sea was marked by crossing the equator – second time for me and first for Deb. We cured a can of beer over the side for Neptune for granting us safe passage. We only had about 6 hours of confused seas during the trip.
We made land fall at dawn on October 10th a few days later then planned due to our weather delayed departure from Costa Rica. With guests arriving from the US at mid day the timing worked well. With he hook down in San Cristobal, our agent Antonio of Seamasters advised that he would pick up our guests and bring out the authorities at 2 PM so we spent the rest of the morning cleaning up Iron Lady from our voyage.
At 2 PM, our welcome committee consisting of Antonio, our guests and 10 authorities arrived to clear us in. There was a diver who inspected our bottom and the certificate for same, two immigration agents, several officers from the Armada (Ecuadorian navy), customs agent, food and agricultural inspectors, and someone assigned to inspect for bugs with a vacuum device and review our fumigation certificate. Our refer, freezers and stores were inspected for prohibited items, our waste management plan was reviewed, the bug inspector opened lockers and removed contents looking for critters, and the Armada officers inspected our engine room and safety equipment. Probably the most thorough inspection I have been thru in all the countries we have visited. Fortunately all our paperwork was in order and the inspections went well so we were cleared in.
It is interesting to note that all the cruise lines maintain boats here that do not leave. Understandable given the complexity and expense of clearing in. Cleaning the bottom and fumigating a large cruise ship would simply be prohibitive if they were not stationed here full time.
Everything here is highly regulated. We are only permitted to use our dinghy to the town dock and back – it cannot be used for any other purpose. We have been approved to visit three ports and we must clear out of each by an Armada officer and present proper paperwork to another officer at the next port. Stops in between are not permitted and we must apply for permission to move 24 hours prior to our planned departure.
As far as visiting any of the various sights and venues, it generally must be done with a regulated tour service as we are not permitted to do so in most instances on our own.
Cheers
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