Many of the small towns and cities we have visited have simply wonderful museums detailing their local history. They do not require all day commitments – typically one to two hours. Akaroa was no exception and had one of the best small museums we visited. It included a wonderful 30 minute video on the region. Well worth the time if you get there. Most of what follows is from the museum.
Akaroa (Long Harbor in Maori) was formed from the caldera of ancient volcanoes some 2 million years ago. There are actually three calderas that form the bulk of the Banks Peninsula which was originally a distinct island from the South Island. Over eons, a land bridge formed creating the peninsula.
The entrance to the harbor and its cliffs, while forbidding looking, is an ancient reminder of that volcano.
Despite its rugged, desolate and forbidding appearance, Akaroa Harbor is actually a great all weather haven. The entrance is deep and fairly wide so that even in a huge following seas it is safe to enter. Motoring up the harbor 4 miles or so there are all kinds of protected spots from almost any wind direction to securely anchor.
The Maori’s first came to Akaroa from the North Island. While the exact date is not known, it is estimated to be over 1000 years ago. The first Europeans arrived in the early 1800’s. Interestingly, the French were the first to come here and the town has a distinctly French flavor – street names, cafes and restaurants all.
An early French explorer came to Akaroa and negotiated the purchase of land with the local Maoris. He then returned to France to organize a party to return and settle here. At or about the same time, the British were negotiating with the Maoris and signed the Treaty of Waitanga on the North Island in 1840. When the Brits heard that the French were laying claim to Akaroa, they rushed here and had the local Maori Chiefs sign the Treaty negotiated in Waitanga as well.
The French returned to see the Union Jack flying over the harbor and a British ship of war lying at anchor. Instead of war, however, the British respected the French claim and the French took up residency here. A British warship was even stationed here to help keep the peace in the early rowdy days of whalers and merchant traders.
The town is simply lovely and is now known as the honeymoon haven of Canterbury.
It is also home to one of the few Presbyterian Churches we have seen in NZ.
Favorite sons of Akaroa include Frank Worsely who who was Captain aboard the Endurance for Shackleton’s disastrous expedition to the South Pole. After the Endurance became trapped in pack ice, Worsely accompanied Shackleton on the James Caird, a 23 foot open whaler on an 800 kilometer journey to South Georgia where they knew there was a Norwegian whaling station. On the journey they endured freezing temperatures, hurricane force winds, monstrous waves, ice and risk of capsize. Their voyage on the Caird is considered, along with Captain Bligh’s small boat voyage after the mutiny, to be one of the greatest small boat voyages in history. After withstanding brutal weather and monstrous seas, they made landfall on the uninhabited south coast of the South Georgian Islands. It was deemed impossible to put back to sea to round the island to the north coast and a number of the men were incapable of travel. Worsely and Shackleton then made the decision to trek across the interior mountains and glaciers without the aid of maps in the dead of winter to reach a Norwegian whaling station. The Norwegians reported that Worsely and Shackleton were barely recognizable as humans when they arrived.
Very tough men these. Life is very much more civilized aboard Iron Lady.