Daniel’s Bay is a short hop form Taiohae Bay and has two separate arms. One is best for anchoring as the other is subject to considerable surge (and problems landing the dink). The entrance to the bays is spectacular with high surrounding cliffs.
With a few views of both arms of the bay.
The light conditions are constantly changing so here are a few other views from our two visits to the bay with different friends aboard.
This view of a blow hole.
And this view of one of the many wild horses that roam the island.
The main attraction, in addition to the few families that live here is Vaipo Falls – arguably the third highest in the world or at least in the South Pacific at 1150 feet. Our guide books suggested that it was an easy 3 hour walk (in total) along a flat path and a small stream. A local women suggested it was a bit more.
Incidentaly, she was sporting a three holstered belt with a machete, a knife and a file for sharpening same. We were told that any self respecting Marquesan did the same (at least away from town). The Marquesans also pride themselves on being a fierce bunch as you can tell from this fellow who posed for us.
While there is some confusion over the issue, apparently eating the “long white pig” (white man) is not that far removed from their culture. A French tourist was apparently dinner last year for one deranged guy – but the Marquesans are quick to point out that this was a most isolated incident – the last confirmed evidence of cannabilism being over 100 years ago.
At any rate, here we are landing on the beach for our adventure.
The walk did indeed start out as advertised – a small dirt road along a gentle stream.
Contrary to the advertised, however, things rapidly turned in to a goat path and worse.
Well two hours in to our walk after fording two heavy duty streams, we got our first view of the falls.
It was pretty clear that we were at least an hour or two away (which we were). Before leaving, Deb was told by one of the locals (in French) to stick to the path, not to make any noises near the falls and stay away from the falls if it was raining. As we approached the base of the falls, we saw this ign.
And as we moved on from this point, the reasons became obvious.
We were in a very narrow chasm between two friable rock walls that extended over 1500 feet above us. Evidence of recent rock falls were everywhere – good reason not to yell. It was also obvious that any sudden rainfall would completely flood the chasm and trap us.
It also became increasingly obvious that we were the first to have been there in quite a while as the weeds were waste high and there was no clear track.
When we finally got there, it was obvious that the falls had eroded their way so far back into the rock fact that we couldn’t get to the base of then without significant risk. It was already now 3 PM and it got dark at 6 PM so we decided that our best course was to head back to the barn before it got dark as we had no flashlights with us.
With out next round of guests, we only went as far as the overview of the falls two hours in and that would be our recommendation to everyone who gets there and wishes to go.
To close, a few more views along with a family that invited us in for fruit, coconut water and socialization – which we highly recommend.
These folks are simply lovely, do not have much, are very generous and sharing and it means a lot to their daily lives to help them along in whatever way you can.
Cheers