Iron Lady’s Helm Station Revisited

For reasons unknown, I seem to be getting a lot of traffic on a post I did quite awhile ago on Iron Lady’s helm station. Since them, some things have changed so I thought it would be worth mentioning for those who are interested in such things.

First, we have found that the cameras we installed (one in the engine room, one looking forward and one looking aft) are basically superfluous. While still onboard and operational, we never really have occasion to use them. In fact, on this voyage, the only time they got turned on was in Hawaii to see if they were operational.

Second, our AIS is a Class B – something I would not do again for a variety of reasons but primarily because of its low transmit power compared to Class A. So my recommendation is to spend the extra money on Class A.

Finally, we have upgraded our Maretron system significantly and intend to do more. The primary addition was to add an IPG100 internet protocol gateway which communicates all the data on the Maretron buss to our onboard network (and when that network is connected to the outside world to us anywhere in the world over the internet).

Using GUI drag and drop software provided by Maretron, it is easy to design screens to display information in any format you choose and modify it on the fly (which we are constantly doing as we refine what we want to see). The primary place this information is displayed is thru our laptop on our central screen at the main helm.

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This same information, again displayed in any format you choose, can be transmitted to your cell phone or iPad – alarms and all. So if a bilge pump is running in Hawaii as Iron lady sits at the dock, I can be notified at home on my iPad – very cool.

While adding the IPG100, we also added temperature sensors for the main engine raw water pump, engine room and exhaust gas temperature on the main. Going forward, we intend to add temperature sensors to the refrigeration system and a complete battery condition and monitoring system on our main house bank that will monitor state of charge, alternator and inverter current, total amp draw and like items. As these are added, we will modify our display screens and alarms accordingly.

As part of all this, we have modified the way we set up our monitors both on passage and in close quarters maneuvering. Unfortunately, I do not have any good pictures to share, but will at least explain it verbally.

On passage, our center monitor is set to display Maretron data so we can keep an eye on all the critical systems it monitors. Our left hand monitor, which only displays Furuno Navnet data, is generally set to display a radar image from our big 12KW open array. We generally keep this set between 4 and 8 miles for close in target detection. The right hand monitor also displays only Furuno Navnet data and we generally have this set to display a longer range radar image on the left hand half of the screen (24 miles or so) for long range target detection. The right hand half of the display is divided into to two sections – one top and one bottom. The top section displays vector chart data which we use primarily for obstruction detection along our planned route. The bottom section is set to a raster chart. We do not have raster charts so the result is a display with a solid gray background at close ranges but like the radars and vector chart displays, it does display our route track in moving highway fashion. We use this display zoomed in to stay on our track line.

As a side note, we do not use the nav function on our autopilot – it is not even connected to our nav system. Long ago, as a pilot, I was taught that doing so dramatically reduces situational awareness and I firmly believe that to this day. Being forced to look at the electronic chart, track line and radars to keep things where they should be instead of blindly relying on an autopilot is a good thing.

On the Furuno NavNet screens, data boxes can also be displayed at the bottom and we generally keep these set up to show time, COG, course to destination and cross track error in meters. Strangely, Furuno will display cross track error digitally but does not have a display which shows which direction the track line actually lies – so you know how far but not which way the desired track is. That is why we use the raster display to create our own version of a moving highway.

Our center display also toggles between Maretron data and our MaxSea chart program. We generally do our route planning in MaxSea as it is easier to use then the Furuno system and the route information is transmitted seamlessly to the Furuno system. MaxSea also has an automatic log function which records data every hour or so as well as track information without limitation for future reference. Furuno only stores 10000 points maximum and then erases the oldest track points. Having said that, we trust the Furuno system more then the MaxSea system – it is simply much more robust. That is why MaxSea is generally hidden behind the Maretron data screen.

The center screen also displays our Furuno scanning sonar information which is input on a VGA port so it is a simple matter to switch between DVI and VGA inputs to bring up the sonar. In close quarters. the left hand screen is still set to radar but is zoomed in depending on our situation. The center screen is used for the scanning sonar in shoal water and coral infested lagoons to give us a good picture of what is in front of us beneath the surface. The right hand display is generally set to display just the chart at a similar scale to the radar. We will often overlay the radar on the chart just to verify that the chart is accurate.

Once at anchor, we will zoom in the chart display and watch the track generated but the boat as it swings about he anchor just to be certain we aren’t dragging and the scanning sonar is used to insure that there are no underwater obstructions within our swing radius. On departure, we use the track generated by our trip in to guide our exit.

Hope this was of interest.

Best

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Nuka Hiva Part 1

Nuka Hiva is roughly 130 square miles in size and is the largest island in the Marquesas. The current population is approximately 2600 people. The principle town is Taiohae on the southern coast which was our port of entry. It supports two Magazins (small grocery stores), a 50 bed hospital and, of course, the Gendarmerie – the local and regional police force along with a few (very few) restaurants, a number of cafes, a small farmers market and one resort. The highest point on the island is almost 4000 feet and it sports the third highest waterfall in the world and an extremely interesting ride to the airport on the other side of the island – but more about those in other posts.

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The above picture is a view looking back down on the Taiohae Bay.

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This closer view shows the commercial wharf in the background with a large sailing cat backed to the wharf while fueling – an interesting experience that we also went thru, but again more about that in a later post. The wharf in the foreground is for small boats and dinghies and offers much needed protection from the ever present surge when landing. While the harbor may look smooth, it is quite a different matter close to shore.

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A number of small cafes, a small restaurant, dive shop and farmers market occupy the area around the wharf. It is really, other then the Magazins, the retail hub of the town.

So here are a few shots of that area including one of our favorite breakfast spots for crepes.

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An another for poisson cru.

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And the area around the restaurant (Alice’s – no relation to the one of Guthrie fame) and Farmers market.

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From the water side, here are some other views looking around the harbor.

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The East and West Sentinels (as they are called) guarding the harbor entrance.

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Unfortunately, reminiscent of Fiji, we also had to share the anchorage with this Chinese piece of junk – Joy of Great Luck number 307 – hard to imagine anyone owning (or wanting to own) at least 307 of these noisy, stinky boats. Fortunately they moved on the day after we arrived.

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The day after we arrived, the commercial island freighter came to town.

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The whole process was amazing to watch as these islands are totally reliant on these ships for their survival. Before dawn, all the villagers arrive by car, truck and foot with their paperwork in hand and the boat is offloaded directly in to their waiting conveyances. Everything from cars to trucks to boats to refrigerators to building materials, dry goods, produce, and fuel all arrive weekly on the supply ship. Taiohae being larger gets ships once a week. Some of the islands don’t see ships more then once a month.

It was off to to the farm market at 0400 (yes 0400) the morning the boat came in to get our fair share of fresh produce that arrived on the boat – and there must have been 50 or 100 people there with us. By noon, the only produce left was that which was grown on the island.

Thats it for now – more next time

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Marquesas

After Gel and George left us in Fakarava in the Tuamotus, it was time for us to head off to the Marquesas. The following will put the geographic equation in perspective.

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On this map, you can see Papeete – our arrival port in Tahiti along with its sister islands in the Society Group to the west. To the east stretching over a vast distance from the northwest to southeast is the Tuamotu Group and farther north and east from there are the Marquesas. The white line denotes our approximate route from Fakarava in the Tuamotus to Nuka Hiva in the Marquesas some 620 nautical miles distant. That represents just about 2.8 days travel time with some allowance for the easterly trades and adverse currents.

We had another group of friends flying in to meet us at Nuka Hiva so it was time to shove off and get there with a few days to spare to put the boat back together, provision, plan our activities in the Marquesas and grab a lay day.

Taking a look at the Marquesas for a second, they are primarily volcanic in origin, steep sided with few surrounding coral reefs. You may recall from prior posts that the Society Group which includes Tahiti is volcanic as well but also supports a significant barrier reef around many of the islands with creates a shallow lagoon between the reef and shoreline. The Tuamotus, on the other hand. are mostly coral atolls – rings of coral reef with a central lagoon and islands and islets (motus) rising from the coral that rings the lagoons.

A few pictures will help to clarify. The first is taken in the pass entering the lagoon at Raiatea in the Societies. The lagoon is surrounded by coral reefs and motus, but there is a high volcanic island in the middle of the lagoon.

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This second picture is entering the lagoon at Fakarava. There are motus surrounding the lagoon, but the lagoon itself is wide open. In fact, the lagoon at Fakarava is big enough to hold the entire island of Tahiti within its confines.

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And finally, a shot entering Daniel’s Bay on Nuka Hiva. It is clear that the step volcanic cliffs fall directly into the sea.

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The Marquesas themselves consist of a number of islands but we found that the ones we liked the most were Nuka Hiva, Tavuatu and Fatu Hiva.

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We actually did two sorties thru the Marquesas as we had two sets of guests visit. No matter – the Marquesas always had something new to show us on each visit.

Next time around, we will start with our first visit to Nuka Hiva.

Cheers

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Pittsburgh

No – we didn’t fall off the face of the earth but internet service (even in Hawaii) has been pretty tough to come by. Now I understand why the harbor master at Ko Olina warned me that Hawaii is really third world as we even had difficulty there.

Iron Lady arrived at Ko Olina Marina on Oahu in Hawaii at the end of August after traveling more then 6800 nautical miles since her departure from New Zealand in May. I arrived back in Pittsburgh yesterday after helping Steve with our post season chores. He will be aboard until early October finishing things up and will join us in Pittsburgh for a few days after to enjoy the fall foliage here.

We will have a relief captain aboard to keep up with things between Steve’s departure and our arrival back aboard in March of 2014. Cruising plans currently call for a direct 2200 nautical mile passage to Kodiak Island in Alaska. We will then gradually make our way back down to the Vancouver area by September. It has long been a dream of mine to do this and I wouldn’t be too surprised if we went north again in 2015 – many folks devote a lifetime to cruising this piece of the world so two seasons really ins’t much.

My last post left you in the Tuamotus – which we are long gone from. That leaves all of the Marquesas in French Polynesia and additional stops at Christmas Island (Part of the Kiribati Line island Group) and Palmyra Atoll, a protectorate of the US Fish and Wildlife Service and the Nature Conservancy. Palmyra was truly spectacular and worth the effort to get the permits to go. We were only the third cruising boat to visit this year. This was followed by our final four day leap to Hawaii while keeping a weather eye to the east for bad stuff of the tropical sort along with the vagaries of the ITCZ and the uphill battle against the northeast trades.

So much yet to cover in future posts once I get thru the inevitable press of first days home.

Cheers

Posted in South Pacific 2013 | 1 Comment

Equator

On August 20th at 2210 hours, some 5545 nautical miles after leaving New Zealand in mid May, Iron Lady crossed the Equator at 151 degrees 41 minutes West. Sorry – no pictures this time, too slow a connection.

Weather conditions have been wonderful on this leg from the Marquesas to Christmas Island and last night was no exception. Gentle winds and following seas, a clear sky and a full moon were on tap for the crossing of the equator. We even had a little help from the current gods as Iron Lady made close to 11 knots SOG.

The crew gathered for a celebratory beer on the flybridge. Steve, acting as Neptune’s rep bestowed the ancient and honourable title of Shellbacks (I think that is what it is) upon Mark and myself including all the honors, rights and privileges associated with the same. We skipped the part where we got gold pierced earrings and had our heads shaved.

Lest our readers think it was all frivolity, we engaged in a scientific experiment to answer a question that has burned in the hearts and minds of men (and women) for eons. When a toilet is flushed in the northern hemisphere, the water circulates counterclockwise during the flush. In the southern hemisphere, it circulates clockwise. (As do the weather systems in both hemispheres)

The burning question is what happens at the equator where there is no corollas effect? Does the water just go straight down (or up – just kidding)? To answer this question, we flushed away as we crossed the equator. The answer – we don’t know for sure. We can confirm that a few meters south of the equator, the circulation was clockwise and a few meters north it was counterclockwise. Unfortunately we must have failed to flush when the toilet was precisely, dead nuts on the equator. From the fact that it changed direction in such a short distance, we can say yes, Virginia, there is most likely a point directly on the equator where the stuff goes down the holey freeholy without rotation. Definitive proof will have to be left to other intrepid adventurers.

Posted in South Pacific 2013 | 6 Comments

Update

We have now been in the Marquesas since George and Gel left us in the Tuamotus. Deb and our friends Lisa and Dan just departed from Nuka Hiva for Pittsburgh. Steve and I are aboard and we are being joined today by Mark Fritzer who is part of the FPB team in Seattle. We have a few days of minor repairs, bunkering and getting the boat ship shape before we depart for the Line Islands and Hawaii.

Expected departure date is August 16 if things go well and we should complete the 2600 nautical mile run to Hawaii the first week of September depending on the duration of our stops in the Line Islands.

As usual, I am way behind on my posts. The Marquesas have been spectacular but more posts will have to wait until our arrival in Hawaii and my return home to Pittsburgh in mid September. I don’t expect to have any internet service after our departure from Nuka Hiva.

Christmas, Fanning and Palmyra should be very interesting. Few people get there and while I hate to see this cruising year draw to a close, it is time for me to attend to things back home while Iron Lady rests in Hawaii. The number of hits we have been getting on our blog just keeps growing and that is gratifying as it is a good bit of work. Thanks for that.

Until I get internet service back, I will leave you with this shot of Iron Lady in the Bay of Virgins, Fatu Hiva in the Marquesas.

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Cheers

Posted in South Pacific 2013 | 5 Comments

Fakarava Part 5

Next night was pizza night at the local wood fired pizza place.

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It took a bit of negotiating as the owner normally only opens for 6 people or more so the 5 of us said we would buy enough for 6. We were then informed that he had run out of onions and a few key ingredients which we said we would bring.

We went in early for a tour of the resort which is very eco conscious. The owner, incidentally, told us that he had personally built the entire thing over a period of 30 years.

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A massive amount of concrete for one man to pour. And the accommodations.

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The kitchen (which was spotless).

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The all important wood fired pizza oven.

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Our dinner table.

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And a very happy Gel and George.

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And a final sunset on Fakarava – definitely near the top of our list.

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If your out this way, pay a visit. The next day, we heard from a fellow yachtie that the owner was out of cheese so remember to bring your favorite pizza toppings with you just in case.

Next – the Marquesas.

Posted in Tuamotus 2013 | Leave a comment

Fakarava Part 4

Next day, Deb and I were off to Bird Island – appropriately named as it was a rookery for nesting birds.

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Not sure what they were but there were certainly a lot of them.

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On the island, the ground is totally covered with bird poop courtesy of all the nesting birds.

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Mom and Dad head just offshore to the lagoon and feed on the schools of bait fish and bring food back to the nestlings.

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The rest of the day was spent swimming and beaching it – just another great day.

Posted in Tuamotus 2013 | 4 Comments